Post Exercise Report

Kinabalu Dragon 16 April - 2 May 2000

Expedition Leader: Steve Whitlock

Team members: Dave Neeley, Rus Poole, Chips Rafferty, Neil Brammer, Martin Barry, Chris Jackson, Mike Mchale.

Kinabalu Dragon was a caving expedition to Malaysia over the period 16 Apr -02 May 2000. Within the team there were the following qualifications- 5 JSCavIs,1 JSCavL, 3 MIAs, 3 JSRCIs, 2CICs, 2 SRT, 3 JSMEL(W), 3 JSMEL, 2 UEL and a JSRL. This level of qualification and experience was considered essential in order for each team member to be totally self reliant in the gully in all situations. In addition at least 1 member in each team was jungle trained.

BACKGROUND

On 11 Mar 1851 Sir Hugh Low was the first to look over the coll between two minor peaks on the Western Plateau of Mt Kinabalu his diary recounts the following:

"I gazed into a circular amphitheatre about 80 yards broad, the bottom of which from its great depth and my position overhanging it, was indiscernible, though I imagine I could see down two thousand feet."

He was looking down what has come to be known as Commando Cauldron the recognised start of Low's Gully. Since then more people have stood on the moon than have entered Low's Gully.

In Feb and Mar 1994 an Army expedition tried unsuccessfully to complete the descent of Low's Gully. The original team entered the gully in one group, which ultimately fragmented. Half of the original group exited via the side of the gully on 9 & 11 Mar 94 with the remaining members being rescued by helicopter on 22 Mar 94. No safety organisation existed and no system of communication with the outside world was utilised. The events were well covered in the press.

In 1998 a civilian expedition comprising of 4 ex-servicemen, with some of the original members, successfully complete a traverse of the gully. The expertise at this time was largely provided by two individuals, with the qualification of Joint Service Cave Instructor, namely; Chips Rafferty and Chris Jackson. In all, the expedition was in Malaysia for 4 weeks. 1998 was an el-ninio year and consequently had the driest recorded Mar and Apr since records began.

CLEARANCE

Due to the obvious sensitive nature of Low's Gully the clearance procedure was lengthy. An initial letter enquiring into the feasibility of such an expedition was written some 12 months before a favourable response. Due to the type of expedition proposed and the notoriety of Low's Gully the expedition was qualified as high risk and remote and therefore was subject to further vetting.

EXPEDITION AIM

The stated aim of Exercise was as follows:

To complete the worlds first pull through trip of Low's gully and with any time remaining explore some of the challenging cave systems of the Mulu National Park.

Sub Scientific aim: To complete a detailed Topographic survey of the Gully begun in 1998.

The aim of the expedition was not met in that a complete pull through descent of the Gully was not completed. A swing in the weather the expedition leader had to make the decision to pull out of the Gully. The expedition should still be claimed successful as a worlds first descent of Commando Cauldron from Mushroom Peak coll, a descent of some 300- 400m was completed. In addition all expedition members climbed a 4100 peak the highest in SE Asian, lived at 3500m for 10 + days, completed classic and some unclimbed routes on some of the minor peaks on the Western Plateau. In addition some time was used to gain useful information which may be used in future climbing expeditions to the area. Part of the sub-scientific aim was meet in that a more detailed topographic survey was produced of the initial part of the descent.

LOCATION

Mt Kinabalu is situated in eastern Malaysia in the north end of what used to be called Borneo. The mountain is in the Kinabalu National Park that is 2 hrs by Taxi from Kota Kinabalu. The hours of darkness were 1800-0530 hrs at this time of year.

WEATHER

The weather during the expedition was notoriously difficult to predict. Many locals commented that weather generally over the last few years had varied considerably from what was considered the norm. During the expedition Malaysia was undoubtedly in the dryer part of the year! Rainfall during Mar & Apr still records 150 - 250 mm per month. Weather forecasts were gained from 4 sources during the expedition:

a) Long term /Big Picture: from UK via the internet.

b) Brunei air traffic Local:

c) From Sabah Air Ops From Sabah Park HQ

Despite all of these sources the weather remained very difficult to predict. Rarely did any of the forecasts correlate and even more rarely were they accurate. This was difficult to understand as detailed studies of the weather were being taken at several weather stations on the mountain. Typically the mountain could and did develop its own weather pattern. However, what was not typical, was that the local population were not able to predict trends. Often the weather would differ on each side of the mountain and at different altitudes. The weather would also change dramatically at least 5-6 times during the day in each of these locations. It was the total unpredictability of the weather coupled with a swing in the weather and forecast bad weather that led to the decision to pull the team out of the gully.

EXERCISE DIARY

After arriving in Malaysiay on the 17th overnighting at Kota Kinabalu on the 17th and at Park HQ on the 18th the expedition members reached Sayat Hut at 1700hrs 19 Apr. On the way up a weather forecast was gained from 4 sources - none forecast adverse conditions. Following kit checks and some food all members were asleep by 2000hrs.

20 Apr At 0500hrs expedition members had breakfast and moved out to the start position to the east of Commando Cauldron in the coll between Donkeys Ears peaks and Mushroom Peak. After final kit checks and a weather forecast check, which was from the UK via Internet, Sabah Air Ops and Park HQ the descent began at 0830hrs. After seeing off the first team the expedition leader left for lone tree in order to establish comms at the next radio check which, was scheduled for 1200hrs. Descent of the first 400 m of Descent was undertaken between 0830 and 1200hrs when the team was seen exiting the bottom of Commando Cauldron and moving along the valley floor.

A problem free descent was confirmed by radio at 1200 hrs. Radio comms was again established at 1600 hrs. Progress was reported to be quite difficult due to generally damp conditions in the gully. The team stopped in the gully in the area of leaves camp for the evening. At this stage it had not rained in the gully for approximately 24 hrs.

21st Apr The 0800 hrs radio call saw all well and the team was forecast to be a New's Pools by 1600 hrs. The weather at this stage was forecast to be unchanged i.e. dull and overcast but with no rain. At approximately 1100 hrs the weather closed in at the top of the mountain and it began to rain at 1130 hrs. The 1200 hrs radio call saw the team moving in the gully but aware that the water level had increased significantly.

At 1300 hrs the team leader in the gully was aware of a sudden increase in the water level and made the decision to wait in safety at Battleship Cave and to see what happened. It was at this stage that Kinabalu Dragon personnel met up with a Belgian team that approached them from behind. The Belgian team was moving more quickly and overtook the British Team who was carrying more equipment. The Belgium team continued down the gully.

Still concerned about the water level Chips Rafferty opted to stay put. At around 1400 hrs a flood pulse hit the gully and made any further movement impossible. During the 1600 hrs radio call the team's position was made clear to the expedition leader who decided to wait for a weather update and to see what the weather would do during the night before making any further decisions. At this stage there was no change in the settled weather forecast.

The weather cleared during the evening and the rain stopped. Following a weather update from Sabah Air Ops and the Park HQ along with big picture from the UK via the Internet the weather was forecast to remain settled and no rain was forecast until the 24 Apr.

At this stage the weather was of concern to the Expedition Leader as rain that had not been forecast had fallen and some wet weather was forecast within two days.

22nd 0800 hrs saw the scheduled radio check. It was at this stage that the expedition leader was informed, that concerned for the safety of the Belgian team with no visible backup and no support, Chips Rafferty and Dave Neeley had set off down the gully. A radio call in order to speak to Chips was then scheduled for 0900 hrs. The team members later recounted they believed that due to the conditions the previous afternoon they would find the other team lying face down in a rock pool. On nearing New's pools they found the Belgian team were perched in trees on the side of the gully. At this stage Chips Rafferty told them that they should move back up the gully into a safer position. This action by undoubtedly saved the lives of this team who would have continued oblivious of any danger.

At 0900 hrs Chips and Steve Whitlock discussed the forecast weather. Without 2 Clear days of absolutely perfect weather forecast Steve decided to pull the team out of the gully. With the team to far down the gully to be recovered by the amount of extra rope available and not wishing to commit any further personnel to the gully it was decided to call for a helicopter.

The team in the gully were contacted at 1200 hrs and told to be prepared to wait until at least the next morning for evacuation. To save battery power, in case of a prolonged stay, radio contact was organised for 0700 hrs

In the afternoon more un-forecast rain fell from about 1300-1600 hrs.

23rd 0700 hrs radio contact was made and the team found well. They reported that the Belgian team were now co-located with the British in Battleship cave. Steve ran the helicopter crew in Kota Kinabalu to explain that all was well and the team would be in a position to be lifted out at 0900 hrs.

 

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